The idea for the route was born in 2023 when Maurizio Oviglia, along with the entire Petzl group, was staying at B&B Pedra Rubia during the filming of the Petzl Legend Tour episode about Masua.
Looking from the B&B terrace, that towering pillar of the Masua cliffs stood out above the rest. Why not open a route there? Why not bolt the longest route in Masua? The idea started to take shape in minds. Then, during the summer of 2024, Maurizio passed under the cliff by canoe and confirmed the feasibility of the project.
Alright, the line was there, but it wasn’t possible to start bolting until winter—the temperatures were still too high.
December arrived, the weather improved, and after a few phone calls to find a day when we were both free, we made a plan. For the approach, we asked the guys from Mormora Tours in Buggerru to take us by boat directly beneath the wall. From there, we began studying the rock, searching for the best line to climb.
Once we identified the ideal starting point, the game was on! The first pitch was quite long, on red rock. From the second pitch onward, we returned to the classic Masua-style gray rock with drops. We reached a ledge with the third pitch, then had to reassess the weaknesses in the rock to find the best way up. We spotted a nice dihedral—time to climb!
After finishing the fourth pitch, we had to rappel down and return to the boat—short winter days weren’t on our side.
By now, it was close to Christmas, and with various commitments, we had to schedule our next day in January. This time, the sea was rough, so we had to find a way to access the wall from above. After a good struggle through Mediterranean scrub, we found the point directly above our project.
We decided to equip the belays for four pitches and continue opening the route while climbing. The first pitch (technically the fourth-to-last) turned out to be a beautiful 6a+, a dihedral with a short overhang. The route continued on solid rock, and at one point, we had a serious adrenaline rush. While hauling up the drill to place another bolt, the cord securing it snapped—we watched it plummet down. Luckily, it got caught on a ledge just below, so we rappelled, retrieved it, and continued. The idea of being halfway up the wall with no drill and only four cams wasn’t exactly reassuring!
With two more pitches, we reached the top of the cliff.
Now we had bolted the first four pitches and the last four. Next time, we had to connect the two sections.
A few days later, we managed to return for a third time. Once again, the sea was too rough for a boat approach, so we descended from above.
Back at our previous high point, we rappelled down, reconnected with the lowest point we had reached on the second day, and then worked out how to reach the highest point from the first day. After three more rappels, we made it.
Now, it was time to climb again. With three more pitches, we connected the two sections.
The final result: a route spanning 280 meters, 11 pitches, with a maximum grade of 6a+.
The name, "18 Lune," was suggested by someone who helped fund part of the project. What is "18 Lune"? A grappa!
Information for a Repeat Ascent
Approach: The route’s base can be accessed by boat from Masua, landing in the cove to the left of Porto Flavia’s exit. If that’s not an option, park at Porto Flavia’s parking lot, about 1 km from the start of the dirt road. Walk back, cross the bridge, and pass the gate, following the "Miniere nel Blu" trail. At the first junction, take the left path, which ascends steeply. You’ll pass a metal ladder and a fixed rope. Traverse until you reach a panoramic point where Pan di Zucchero comes into view for the first time. From there, continue for 10 minutes on the trail, then take a left onto a smaller path (marked by an orange cord on a juniper bush) leading through the scrub toward the rocky summit that marks the end of the wall. (1-hour approach from the parking lot).
Route Description:
From the rocks at the base, climb left to the far left end of a ledge (S0). Climb diagonally on delicate red rock, then traverse sharply right with challenging moves (S1, 35m, 6a+; 6b if traversing higher, the original line).
Climb above the belay into a hollow, then traverse right on white rock (S2, 30m, 5c, spaced bolts).
Continue up a beautiful, easy white slab, exiting onto an inclined ledge. Move to the base of the upper wall (S3, 30m, 4c).
Climb a vague dihedral to a ledge (S4, 15m, 5b).
Traverse right on great white and brown rock, climb a pillar with good holds (S5, 20m, 5a).
Head right into a dihedral that looks tough but offers good holds, exiting onto a nice terrace (S6, 15m, 5c). Pitches L5 and L6 can be linked.
Continue easily to the base of the upper vertical wall (S7, 15m, 4a).
Climb a fantastic series of vertical and sustained cracks (S8, 30m, 6a+).
Move left up a short wall to access a vertical dihedral crack with sharp, abrasive rock (S9, 35m, 5c+).
Follow an inclined white slab that steepens toward the end (S10, 35m, 5c).
Move left into a vertical dihedral with a brief challenging section (S11, 25m, 5a).
Descent:
If you arrived by boat, you can rappel the route with a single 80m rope (be cautious—some rappels are diagonal, consider making shorter rappels).
Otherwise, scramble to the rocky summit, then descend to the col between this summit and the higher peak of the pillar. Do not climb up; instead, descend left along a trail (marked with cairns). Then ascend steeply through the scrub, following a gap in the vegetation until you reach the "Miniere nel Blu" trail (10 minutes). Follow it back to the parking lot (35 minutes).
